Cahors : TASTING 73 WINES

6 of 73 FIRST
DOMAINE COSSE ET MAISONNEUVE

ROBERT PARKER - WINE ADVOCATE 
PAR YOHAN CASTAING
DECEMBRE 2024 

I recently visited several wineries and tasted many wines in Cahors, a region in southwestern France renowned for its robust, dense wines that have earned historical acclaim. As today’s consumer preferences shift toward more refined wine styles, a new generation of winemakers is driving a healthy transformation, producing wines rich in fruit flavors and characterized by an elegant, velvety tannic profile.

This positive shift has revitalized the appellation and brought it to prominence in the wine world. Esteemed estates such as Cosse Maisonneuve In my view, the wines of Cahors rank among the most intriguing in the South-West. However, I must acknowledge that the appellation shows considerable variation in style and intrinsic wine quality.

Some winemakers, though, craft wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with France’s finest. For example, Catherine Maisonneuve and Mathieu Cosse produce the Cuvée Marguerite, which I consider one of the world’s top expressions of Malbec. Nonetheless, even with some winemakers’ adaptations, the typical style of Cahors's wines—dense, powerful and tannic—might surprise today’s consumers.
This robustness, however, is a boon for those who appreciate wines with long-term aging potential.

Marguerite 2022 - RP 95+

Notes of iris, violet, spices, pepper and dark wild berries mingled with notes of licorice and lead pencil introduce the 2022 Marguerite, a full-bodied, dense and deep Cahors with a layered and structured texture, a fleshy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins and a precise, pure mid-palate that segues into a long, crystalline finish with chalky dry extracts. This bottle encapsulates the power of its remarkable terroir, expertly controlled by Catherine Maisonneuve and Mathieu Cosse.

Domaine Cosse Maisonneuve was established in 1999 through a partnership between Matthieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve. Occupying 26 hectares, the estate is celebrated for crafting wines of profound intensity, depth and elegance. They are among the finest in the Cahors appellation thanks to their enviable heritage of old, sélection massale vines and precise viticulture. Their winemaking approach includes cold pre-fermentation, gentle extraction and fermentation in open concrete vats, coupled with extended barrel maturation to soften Malbec’s robust tannins. The vineyard is certified biodynamic by Demeter.

Marguerite 2020 - RP 96

Crafted entirely from Malbec planted on red clay soils, the 2020 Marguerite wafts from the glass with delicate aromas of cedar, dark berries, spices, mulberries and flowers mingled with notes of loamy soils.
Full-bodied, dense and deep, it has a rich chassis of tannins, a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and a silky and refined character, concluding with a long, spicy and endless finish. Though somewhat reserved at this stage, a few years of cellaring will reveal its true potential as one of the best wines of Cahors.

Domaine Cosse Maisonneuve was established in 1999 through a partnership between Matthieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve. Occupying 26 hectares, the estate is celebrated for crafting wines of profound intensity, depth and elegance. They are among the finest in the Cahors appellation thanks to their enviable heritage of old, sélection massale vines and precise viticulture. Their winemaking approach includes cold pre-fermentation, gentle extraction and fermentation in open concrete vats, coupled with extended barrel maturation to soften Malbec’s robust tannins. The vineyard is certified biodynamic by Demeter.

Une de Mai 2020 - RP 95

A brand new cuvée at this address, the 2020 Une de Mai, a blend of 86% Malbec and 14% Cabernet Franc (which explains its classification as Vin de France), unfurls from the glass with a complex bouquet of pepper, lead pencil, dark berries, ripe grapes and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, pure and dense, it has powdery, velvety tannins and a delicately fleshy core of fruit enhanced by a tense, straight and saline texture that segues into the long, ethereal finish with fine-grained tannins and chalky dry extracts. Sourced from vines planted on calcareous and red clay soils, it matured in a mix of new, one-year and two-year-old barrels. This is a splendid Cahors in the making. Kudos!

Sidérolithe 2017 - RP 96

One of the most intriguing wines I tasted during my trip to Cahors, the 2017 Sidérolithe from Domaine Cosse Maisonneuve wafts from the glass with a complex, dense bouquet of lead pencil, loamy soils, sweet spices, incense and iris mingled with elegant floral notes. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's seamless and enveloping, framed by a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, this is one of the most impressive 100% Cabernet Francs I ever tasted and is a remarkable
achievement from Catherine Maisonneuve and Mathieu Cosse.

Marguerite 2015 - RP 94+

The 2015 Marguerite is stunning today, revealing a complex, dense bouquet of iris, violet, plum, tobacco and lead pencil. Full-bodied, sappy and enrobing, it's fresh and seamless, with a rich chassis of tannins perfectly controlled by mineral power and a long, resonant and racy finish. It will require patience.

Marguerite 2011 - RP 96

Tasted at the estate, the 2011 Marguerite is one of my favorite vintages at this address. Revealing a dense, complex and perfumed bouquet of iris, dark cherries, lead pencil, dark berries, tobacco and menthol, it's full-bodied, rich and dense with a broad and layered palate framed by sweet but not entirely melted tannins leading to a long, ethereal and racy finish. While in no danger of imminent decline, it's drinking very well today. Kudos!